This is the long-awaited 2nd version of the 6061-T6 aluminum handguard for the Kel-Tec RDB.
After many requests, we have created a 2nd version we call the “Rhino Rail”. Squared off at the front instead of angled, this is the same overall length as the original Raptor rail, but due to being squared off at the front adds one M-Lok section on the left, right, and top sides for accessory mounting or better hand gripping.
Powder coated black, this will also be offered in tan and green once we get them back from Cerakote.
For those who have purchased a Raptor Rail, we will be offering an exchange on your rails as well, price depending on condition.
These mount the exact same way with the exact same hardware as the original Raptor rail, so it will be a slip-on replacement.
Yes, we ship to Canada, but no other international shipping due to ITAR.
Thanks again for all your business, we greatly appreciate it!
Installation instructions will NOT be in the box. We pre-assemble these with the exception of ONE pin that has to be assembled.
Step 1: CHECK YOUR PACKAGING. There is a small baggie with your front stay, internally-threaded standoff, and screws for the front mount. It’ll be in the plastic of the rail but might fall into packaging material. DO NOT THROW THIS AWAY!
We HIGHLY recommend you take the silver standoff and FREEZE it overnight.
Step 2. Remove your factory handguard.
Step 3. The front U-shaped stay goes around your factory gas block and the .250″ holes line up. We insert the screws into the u-shaped front stay and silver aluminum standoff to mark where they go as they are differently sized. Remove these screws while noting their position and set aside.
Step 4. The front U-shaped stay hole is DELIBERATELY oversized .002″. DO NOT SAND THE SILVER STANDOFF OR REAM THIS HOLE. The two together create an interference fit like an AR roll pin to eliminated the wobble the factory plastic handguard has and gives you a tight fit on your rifle.
Use a LOT of gun oil in the holes on the U-shaped stay and the rifle gas block (not solvent, use GUN OIL), line up the front stay and the gas block holes, and hammer the silver standoff SLOWLY into the holes until equally inserted left and right. Slow and steady. Hitting it too hard to speed up installation WILL deform your standoff. Don’t do that. It’s going to take a few minutes, but slow and steady wins the race.
Note: The silver standoff will NOT be flush with the front stay edges. This is why they call it a “standoff”. The screws are long enough to allow the rail to be drawn tight towards the stay.
Note 2: Use a FLAT brass punch to hammer the standoff in. It will be tight, but it will go. Take your time. About 5-7 minutes with slow, deliberate, firm hammer strikes on the brass punch. DO NOT used a round nose punch, you will mar the threads and the screws won’t insert.
Step 5. Slide rail onto the rifle starting at the REAR of the rail from in FRONT of the flash hider all the way down until the rear stays’ U-shaped cups are around the mounting points of the rifle receiver. Insert front screws and snug all screws.
Note 3: We highly recommend removing one screw at a time once all are tight, applying blue loctite, then re-tightening. About 8-10 INCH pounds, not a lot or you’ll strip the screw heads. It just needs to be *snug* if you’re using blue loctite.
Please email us with ANY questions or take to a licensed gunsmith if you are uncertain at all. Thank you!